Evening Dress
Maker
Henriette Favre
Periodcirca 1893 - 1895
MediumPanne velvet, silk, silk organdy, lace, cotton, glass beads, silver metallic sequins, steel boning
DimensionsWaist to hem front: 41 in. (104.1 cm)
SignedThe gown's woven waistband stay tape bears the signature "Henriette Favre / Rue de la Paix. 5."
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Bowen Bancroft-Smith, 1949
Object number3271
DescriptionA woman's two piece evening dress consisting of a bodice and a skirt. The bodice, of ivory panne velvet, has a shallow boat neck and a wide ivory lace collar which extends over the bodice's elbow length puffed sleeves. The bodice is lined with soft white cotton and is boned with steel. The skirt is also of ivory panne velvet, with elaborate vertical iris sprays embroidered in lilac and purple glass beads and silver and pale gold sequins over ivory silk organdy.Curatorial RemarksThis breathtakingly beautiful gown, with its rich ivory panne velvet and embroidered lavender and purple irises was made by Parisian designer Henriette Favre. A woven waist tape sewn to the inside of the bodice is emblazoned with "Henriette Favre / Rue de la Paix 5." Favre was a well-known and highly regarded designer at the turn of the century, but little is known about her today. An 1897 newspaper article appearing in the Philadelphia area newspaper The Morning Call described the Exhibition Days held at the Wanamaker's Department Store from 13 to 16 October, gushing that "there has never been such a comprehensive collection made, in any store in the world, of rich costumes, wraps and lingerie...every famous costumer appreciates this great American outlet for fine goods..." Among the well-known designers listed was Henriette Favre, "who counts among her clients the Princess of Wales, the Duchess of Devonshire and other ladies of the English Court." Another newspaper article mentioned that Wanamakers had purchased the entire display directly from the 1897 Brussels International Exposition. A few months later, in early spring of 1898, the Manhattan Wanamaker's held a display of "the largest and most costly collection of imported clothing for women ever shown in a dry goods emporium." The newspaper The Brooklyn Citizen noted that "perfect and beautiful dresses" from Worth, Paquin, Callot Seurs and Henriette Favre were now available. The article urged readers to see the show, noting that "no one who cares for beautiful dresses ought to fail to see these exhibitions." TheWanamakers purchased a number of the dresses directly from the Brussels International Exposition in 1897. Favre received at least two royal commissions from Princess Alexandra of Great Britain. Favre gowns are also in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.NotesThis gown was worn by Monmouth County resident Ella Hunt Vanderveer. Ella was the youngest daughter of David A. Vanderveer (1833 - 1911) and Georgianna Hunt (1842 - 1915), who were married in 1861. Ella was born on 21 February 1875. She was named for her mother's sister, Ellen Doty Hunt (1840 - 1928). Hunt was wealthy, much of her fortune resulting from inheritances from close family members. Ella's aunt doted on her favorite niece and namesake, and introduced Ella into society at parties and receptions in New York City, Newport, and in Europe, where the two attended the coronation of Edward VII and Queen Alexandra in 1901. Upon returning from Europe, a minor scandal resulted when Miss Hunt failed to declare a diamond and pearl necklace purportedly worth $20,000 that she had purchased for her niece. Newspaper articles included mention of Ella, stating that "Miss Vanderveer is a protege of Miss Hunt's, and has lived with her for several years. She is a beautiful young woman and was introduced into society some time ago. She has been a belle at Newport and other resorts." It is not hard to imagine Ella dressed in the white velvet gown glittering with embroidered irises along the skirt, most likely purchased for Ella by her aunt. It was while moving in this high social circle that Ella met Bowen Bancroft Smith. Smith was a Philadelphia architect. The couple married at a small ceremony at her aunt's New York City home at 42 East 50th Street on 2 april 1903. A photograph of the bride appeared in the 5 April 1903 New-York Tribune, with Ella in profile, her hair piled atop her head. After their marriage, the couple traveled in Europe for a year, then returned to live in both Tuxedo Park, New York, and in New York City. The couple had one child, a son named Bowen Hunt Bancroft Smith, who was born in 1904. Throughout her marriage, Ella remained close with her family in Monmouth County. Ella's husband died in 1932, and Ella continued to live in Tuxedo Park, staying at her "country home" in Freehold, New Jersey.
Collections
