Evening Gown
PeriodCirca 1930 - 1935
Place MadeNew York or New Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumSilk satin, woven silk and metallic openweave, rhinestones and silvertone metal
Dimensions50 in. (127 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Claire Hecht, 1996
Object number1996.12.16
DescriptionA woman's evening dress, consisting of gown, overgown, and belt. The gown is made of oyster white silk satin, with complex bias cut construction, deep V neckline, narrow ribbon shoulder straps, and gored skirt panels assembled as gores to flare out at the hem. The gown slips over the wearer's head. The overgown is constructed of openweave black and silver metallic threads in a gauzy material, also made as a pullon garment, with rounded neckline, bias cut body, open back, simple flat shoulder straps, and two elongated narrow rectangular panels sewn to the shoulders and back waist of the garment and hanging as freefalling back interest. The gown also has a matching belt in black and silver metallic gauze weave with a large double front clasp in the shape of matching geranium leaves in silvertone metal inset with numerous rhinestone/paste stones.Curatorial RemarksThis gown's complex bias cut construction points to its dating from the early 1930s. By 1930, the tubular unfitted silhouette of the 1920s had begun to give way towards a more body-conscious silhouette. Bias-cut gowns relied on the natural diagonal stretch of fabrics when used in this way. Although the fashionable silhouette still focused on slender forms, the 1930s style began to reintroduce the waistline, bust, and hips. This particular evening gown has no zipper, buttons, hooks or eyes and simply slips over the wearer's head, relying on the stretch of the woven silk satin for ease. Once on, the gown would cling to the wearer, creating sensuous elegance reminiscent of old Hollywood movies. The gown could be worn with or without its sheer overdress, with the belt bringing a hint of contrast and sparkle to the ivory silk satin.NotesThis gown was owned and worn by Edythe Kositchek Koehler (1884 - 1960). Edythe was born in Eaton Rapids, Michigan to Henry and Belle Kositchek. Henry was a highly successful and respected clothing merchant who ran a large department store in downtown Lansing, Michigan for almost fifty years. Edythe married Harold H. Koehler (d. 1953) in 1907. The couple eventually moved to New Jersey, where Harold worked as a successful lawyer in Newark. The couple had several children including a daughter named Claire. Claire Koehler married Arthur S. Hecht and later moved to the Oceanport, Monmouth County, area. She donated many of her mother's fashionable garments to the Association in 1996.
