Images(4)

Quilted Petticoat

PeriodCirca 1780 - 1790

Place MadeNew Jersey, U.S.A.

MediumSilk, glazed linen, glazed cotton, wool, wool batting

Dimensions40 in. (101.6 cm)

ClassificationsCostume, Women's

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Florence Maisel, 1946

Object number2097.2

DescriptionA woman's quilted petticoat of drab grayish-green silk with a set-in waistband. The front of the petticoat is fashioned into large pleats, while the rear of the petticoat is gathered. The skirt has a single seam down the proper right side, with the upper 11 inches left as a pocket access slit. An additional slit of 8 1/2 inches, now sewn closed, was originally open along the proper left side of the petticoat. Both side slits are bound with drab grayish-green silk. All but the upper 3 1/2 inches of the petticoat is quilted in elaborate and finely worked patterns of sunflowers, tulips, grape bunches, meandering feather bands, and other floral and foliate motifs all with diagonal line stitching in 1/8 inch spacing, with approximately 14 stitches to the inch. The quilting pattern appears to have an identifiable "front" with a large sunflower and tulip with feathered vines radiating outward, with no apparent repeat of motifs. The waistband has been reworked at some point, however, shifting the central elements slightly to the left. The hem is banded with tightly felted wool moleskin and a dark grayish-green wool edging with pinked scallops. The petticoat's lining is coarsely woven glazed gray linen. Small areas of wear reveal that the garment's batting consists of rich reddish-brown wool.
Curatorial RemarksThis quilted petticoat, of drab grayish-green silk, was reworked sometime during its existence, with the waistband crudely enlarged. These later alterations do not detract from the maker's evident skill. Elaborate and finely worked quilting patterns, with fourteen stitches to the ince, include sunflowers, tulips, grape bunches, feathers, and other lively and creative motifs. This style of petticoat was popular for decades, serving both practical and fashionable purposes. These skirts were meant to be shown and were worn with an "open" style gown to show off the quilting workmanship. The term "petticoat" did not signify an undergarment until the nineteenth century. In addition, the sheer volume of such a garment would help the wearer's skirts stand out in a fashionable manner. Quilted petticoats offered a third and much needed benefit. In houses warmed only by open fires, the thick skirts gave their wearers warmth and protection from the cold. This petticoat predates the round gown by at least ten to twenty years.NotesThis elaborately quilted silk petticoat was donated to the Association in 1946 as part of a group of garments identified as a "Quaker costume." The group, including a round gown (2097.1), bonnet (2097.3), drawstring purse (2097.4), and six kerchiefs and handkerchiefs (2097.5), are all constructing in muted grays, olive greens, soft cream white, and tan.

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