Sampler
Maker
Mary Collier
Period1830
MediumPlied wool and plied silk thread on linen
Dimensions16.88 × 17.5 in. (42.9 × 44.5 cm)
SignedThe sampler is signed "Mary Collier Aged 10."
ClassificationsNeedlework
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Julia Hartshorne Trask, 1946
Object number2084.5
DescriptionA square sampler on brown, rather coarse open weave linen, with selvedge edges along the right and left sides and narrow hems along the top and bottom edges. Both plied wool and plied silk threads were used, with the majority of the embroidery done in wool. The sampler is worked with cross and box stitches in scarlet, hot pink, rose, baby blue, olive green, brown, medium gray, lilac, russet, oyster white, and tan. Along the top, a half-inch upper case alphabet in double letter format runs along two rows, from AA to MM, and NN to XX, with a single letter Y worked at the end of the second row. A second alphabet, also half-inch upper case, is worked beneath the first alphabet. There are slight variations within the alphabet formation, including an italic first "A." The second alphabet comprises two rows, beginning with AA to MM, then NN to XX, with a single Y at the end. The alphabet sequences are divided by narrow linear bands. Below both alphabets are three repeat bands, including a narrow rosebud border, a wide floral and "Christmas tree" band, and a narrow meandering strawberry vine. Along the middle of the sampler panel runs a partial half-inch upper case alphabet worked in box stitch, this time in single letter format, from A to X. Below the alphabet appears a wide strawberry repeat band. Under the alphabets and bands, a large stylized floral spray sprouts from a two-handled shallow basket. A pair of white birds perch atop the blossoms, above a pair of gray cats. Clusters of stylized floral sprays and smaller spot blossoms flank the central basket. A distinctive Greek key border runs beneath the motifs. The sampler's signature "Mary Collier Aged 10" is worked within a blue cross stitched band, centered below the Greek key strip. At the bottom of the sampler, a large central floral basket is flanked on either side by stylized tulips, lilies, and pine trees. Two small scarlet lions appear above the tulip motifs. A pair of cross stitched bands in red and blue form a narrow border along all four sides.Curatorial RemarksBy the age of only ten, sampler maker Mary Collier had developed proficient needlework skills. It is not known where Mary attended school, but it is clear that her anonymous instructress helped Mary complete a well-balanced, colorful, and accomplished sampler. Red and brown lions appear on a sampler made in 1795 by Susan Hough of Juliustown in Burlington County, and on another dated 1800 by Mercy Hopkins. Both were taught by Sarah Shoemaker in the vicinity of Juliustown and / or nearby Pemberton. Although the red lions on Mary Collier's sampler differ from those on the two Burlington County examples, it may be that the motif was copied by or served as inspiration for teachers within the general area. Mary's hometown of Plumsted, at that time part of Monmouth County, was located only twelve miles from Juliustown and more within the Burlington County cultural sphere of influence than the rest of what became Ocean County. The surrounding area boasted a number of schools in which sewing and needlework formed part of the curriculum, and the region was one in which excellent embroidery teachers were concentrated. NotesThe girl who worked this sampler may be Mary Collier, a lifelong resident of Plumsted Township, Ocean County, New Jersey. Mary was born in 1820, a daughter of John Collier (1792 - 1860) and Leah Gaskill (1791 - 1883). Collier was a farmer in Plumsted, which until 1850 was a part of Monmouth County. The family were members of the Jacobstown Baptist Church, where John and Leah were interred. Mary married to William C. Emley (1818 - 1894), also affiliated with the Jacobstown church, a prosperous farmer, and near neighbor to the Collier farm. Toward the end of her life, Mary Emley moved to the nearby village of New Egypt, where she died on 28 July 1904 at the age of eighty-four.
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