Walking Dress
Periodca. 1875 - 1880
Place MadeNew Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumCorded silk, voided velvet, cotton
DimensionsBodice: 22 in. (55.9 cm)
Skirt: 40 in. (101.6 cm)
Dolman: 34 in. (86.4 cm)
Skirt: 40 in. (101.6 cm)
Dolman: 34 in. (86.4 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mrs. H. M. Pridham, 1947
Object number3101
DescriptionA woman's three piece walking or promenade gown, including a bodice, skirt, and dolman or cape. The bodice is constructed of burgundy silk in a corded weave, with a standing collar, closely fitted and shaped long sleeves, and a princess waist. The bodice closes down the front with twenty-two crocheted covered ball buttons, with rows of decorative vertical tucks on either side of the center closure. Individual dark olive green plush velvet geranium leaves are appliqued down the left and right front bodice sides, along the back of the rear princess waist, and pairs of leaves on both sleeve ends, all sewn with tiny buttonhole outline stitching. Both cuffs include bands of multiple horizontal tucks and narrow off-white net lace ruffles. The bodice is fully lined with tan twill woven cotton. A brown glazed cotton band is sewn inside the bodice a waist stay tape. The gown's separate skirt is constructed of alternating panels of voided velvet, with a burgundy ground and deep olive green plush large naturalistic geranium leaves, and gathered panels of corded burgundy silk in the front and corded silk at the back. The skirt is walking or ankle length, with a two inch band of pleated ruffles around the entire hem width. The skirt includes a fitted waistband with a single button closure set at the proper left side. the fabric is gathered into closely set cartridge pleats along the back to accomodate a shallow bustle effect. The skirt is entirely lined with glazed brown cotton, and a half length of steel boning is sewn horizontally to the inside of the skirt, within a brown cotton casing, at the wearer's knee height. The gown includes a separate dolman, or fitted capelet, constructed entirely of voided velvet with a burgundy ground and dark olive green geranium leaves. The dolman has a standing collar and four hooks and eyes down the front for closure. The dolman is lined with a lightweight pale gray plain weave silk, with a maroon silk satin ribbon sewn to the center back as a waist stay tape.Curatorial RemarksThis charming and unusual three-piece costume shows the influence of the Aesthetic Movement in American fashion. The naturalistic geranium leaves, rendered in rich deep olive green velvet against an equally rich burgundy silk ground, are also used as individual appliqued elements on the gown's bodice. The skirt's short length, which would have come to the wearer's ankles, indicates the outfit's use as a walking or promenade garment, suitable for somewhat more active trips or events. The dress includes an outer capelet. The distinctive fitted style, with the longer front panels and shorter gathered back hem, coupled with the winged sleeve shape, makes up what was called a dolman. The construction of such capelets accomodated the wearer's bustled skirts and followed the fitted lines of the bodice. The Aesthetic Movement was a particular intellectual and artistic vision which developed in Great Britain during the later 19th century and influenced literature, art, music, and the decorative arts. Primary design inspiration came from Asian art as well as nature, especially flowers and birds. This woman's walking costume, with its relatively simple silhouette, relying on color, contrast, and fabric rather than on trimmings, speaks of the influence of the Aesthetic Movement's ideals within fashion.NotesThis attractive promenade costume was owned and worn by Elizabeth "Libbie" Bradley Pridham. Libbie Bradley was born in 1858 in Hudson, Columbia County, New York. She was the daughter of Wesley and Mary Miller Bradley. The family relocated to Monmouth County in 1874. Libbie married Edwin Pollock Pridham (1851 - 1924) on June 25, 1878. The couple lived in Ocean Grove for many years. Edwin's obituary described Pridham as a "pioneer of the Grove, having settled there in the early 70s." Pridham ran a successful painting, wallpaper, and decorating firm in Ocean Grove and was highly active in the local fire department. Edwin and Libbie moved from Ocean Grove to the Wanamassa section of Ocean Township in 1916 to be close to their daughter. Libbie died at the age of 80 on April 6, 1938. She was interred in Glendola Cemetery in Wall, N.J. Her walking costume was donated to the Historical Association by her daughter-in-law Mary Wright Pridham, wife of her son Harrison "Harry" M. Pridham, in 1947.
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