Dolman or Fitted Cape
PeriodCirca 1880 - 1885
Place MadeNew York or New Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumHeavy corded silk, plain silk, silk and cotton lace, jet beading, steel
Dimensions36 in. (91.4 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineMuseum Collection, 2022
Object number2022.530
DescriptionA woman's fitted capelet, known as a dolman, constructed of heavy black corded silk with a front hook and eye closure, standup collar with rounded front points and edged with black cotton lace, the front bodice panels falling to below waist level. The capelet's sleeves have sharply peaked shoulder seams and tabbed panels at the elbows. The back panels end at just above waist height. The capelet is heavily embroidered with jet, including faceted round, facted tube, and small smooth flat disc bead shapes, set into floral and foliate swirls and sprays. The front edges of the dolman are trimmed with 3" long bead fringe comprised of rows of looped faceted round beads. The interior of the dolman is lined with plain black silk and retains its waist tape and closure.Curatorial RemarksShaped capes and capelets, often called "dolmans," refer to a group of distinctively styled outerwear popular during the bustle era. These capes usually had elongated front panels, peaked shoulder seams, and tabbed or shaped "sleeves" that simply draped over the wearer's arms. The backs of dolman capes ended at or just above the wearer's waist in order to accommodate the sweep of the bustle in back. Dolmans were often highly decorated with a wide variety of trims, ribbons, lace, beading, and fringe and often fastened with only a single heavy hook and eye closure at the throat. This particular dolman, with its heavy black silk fabric and extensive jet bead embroidery is typical of this group. Although black was often a sign of mourning, black was also a highly fashionable color for garments of all sorts. The glittering appearance of the extensive jet bead embroidery indicates that this was not a garment made for mourning but instead as part of a fashionable woman's wardrobe, worn to social calls and to evening events. Outerwear such as dolmans and other capes and capelets were available ready-made in "one size fits most," offered by the growing number of department stores in the larger city centers such as New York or Philadelphia.
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