Woman's Suit

Periodcirca 1935 - 1938

MediumWool yarn, celluloid buckle, elastic

ClassificationsCostume, Women's

Credit LineGift of Teresa Olson, 2019

Object number2019.4

DescriptionA woman's five piece day suit of hand-knitted fine soft orange wool yarn, consisting of a short-sleeved sweater (a), knee-length A-line skirt (b), cardigan style jacket (c) , scarf (d), and narrow belt (e). The sweater features a delicate allover shell pattern, with a square neckline and short, close-fitting sleeves; both sleeve and sweater bottom are finished with rib stitch. The skirt is a simple A line, with a wide seven-inch border of shell stitch with a shallow scalloped hem edge and half-inch elastic running through an openwork band and hand-sewn closed with gray thread. The accompanying jacket is constructed in an open front style with an inch-wide banded border of a simple seed stitch; the jacket's long sleeves flare out slightly at the wrists and include a seven-inch border of shell stitching. The suit includes a scarf with shell pattern ends and a narrow one-inch belt with a rounded end and a pearly white plastic/celluloid ovoid buckle.
Curatorial RemarksAssunta Vaccaro's masterful knitted suit, made for her daughter-in-law, illustrates the popularity of knitting during 1930s America. Although knitted garments, particularly socks, scarves, hats, and sweaters, had been produced by American knitters since colonial times, knitting experienced an upswing in popularity during the Depression years of the 1930s. A number of factors contributed to this. After World War I, Coco Chanel used jersey (knit) fabric in constructing women's garments in part because wartime shortages made other fabric choices harder to come by. The boxy, straight lines of women's fashions of the 1920s gave way to the more body conscious, feminine styles of the 1930s. Knit fabrics and garments emphasized the clinging, curve-hugging styles popular at the time. Hand knitting was one of the few industries not hard-hit by the Great Depression and in fact the number of American yarn manufacturers rose dramatically from about ten to more than a hundred. Knitting contests, sponsored by yarn manufacturers, meant free entertainment and offered contestants prizes - including trips and cash - for award-winning design and execution, and gave yarn companies free publicity. Judging from the flawless execution of a multiple-piece garment with a complex shell pattern, Assunta Vaccaro was a highly accomplished knitter. She most likely used a commercially-produced pattern for the suit's construction. Knitting patterns appeared in fashion magazines, newspapers, and were offered by yarn companies as well.NotesThis beautifully-made and fashionable woman's suit was made by Allenhurst resident Assunta Maria Vaccaro. Born in Naples, Italy, in August 1889, Assunta Maria Cittarella emigrated to the United States in or around 1908. She married Martino Vaccaro the same year and the couple settled in Asbury Park. In the 1915 New Jersey state census, the Vaccaros were living on Washington Avenue with their two sons Pasquale (nicknamed Patty, the census taker incorrectly noted the boy's name as "Batty") and Antonio ("Tony"). By 1926, the family had moved to 319 Elberon Avenue in the Allenhurst section of Asbury Park. In 1937, Assunta's son Pasquale married Rose Tessie Siciliano of Neptune, Monmouth County. Rose, born in 1912, graduated from Neptune High School in 1931 and worked in the Asbury Park office of New Jersey Bell Telephone. At the time of the wedding, Pasquale, a graduate of Asbury Park High School, was a teacher in New York City and was attending New York University. According to the notice of the wedding which appeared in the Asbury Park Press, "Mr. and Mrs. Vaccaro left for a wedding trip to New York city, where they will make their home." Although it is unknown when Assunta made this suit for her daughter-in-law, it is possible that the garment was intended for the bride to wear on her honeymoon. Rose's daughter, Teresa Vaccaro Olson, donated her mother's dress to the Historical Association.