Gown and Matching Jacket
Period1868
Place MadeSan Francisco or New York, U.S.A.
MediumSilk taffeta, cotton, silk velvet
Dimensions62 in. (157.5 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mary Minturn Adams in memory of her Hartshorne Ancestors, 2018
Object number2018.10.29
DescriptionA woman's one-piece reception or visiting gown of pinstripe black and deep red silk taffeta, with a front hook and eye closure, V neck, slightly dropped shoulders, and long fitted sleeves. The attached waistband closes at the front with a dogleg hook and eye panel, with gored front panels and an elongated full train at back. The gown is boldly trimmed with wide bands of applied rich red silk velvet along the hem, and as false lapel facings at the bodice front. Two shaped curved silk velvet panels form a "vest" or "scarf" appearance, attached at front shoulder seams and at back waist, falling gracefully along the front of the bodice. The inside bodice is lined with dark brown cotton, with boning channels retaining the original whalebone. The gown also includes a matching unlined jacket, constructed of the red silk velvet and cut in a relatively unfitted style, with button front, wide lapels, slightly dropped shoulders and long fitted sleeves. The jacket includes a gored back panel insert to accomodate the gown's train. The jacket retains its original bold buttons of black figured white marble set into gold tone metal.Curatorial RemarksIn 1868, Julia Norton Hartshorne worked with an unknown dressmaker, most likely in San Francisco, to design and create a number of new gowns. Styles were rapidly changing, the most visible of which were skirt silhouettes. The full, round skirt style of the early 1860s was shifting towards the back, creating a more elliptical appearance which would ultimately transform into the bustle fashions of the 1870s and 1880s. Based upon analysis of the other gowns in her wardrobe, Julia Hartshorne was both fashionable as well as somewhat practical. This is one of two gowns with matching casual jackets.NotesJulia Norton was born in Buffalo, NY, on 19 November 1838, a daughter of Charles Norton (1805 - 1870) and Julia A. Maltby (1804 - 1875). Between 1854 and 1861, the four Norton children moved to San Francisco, CA. Their parents moved to join them in the winter of 1862. In the spring of 1861, Julia became engaged to Benjamin Minturn Hartshorne (1826 - 1900), son of Robert Hartshorne (1798 - 1872) and Mary Ann Minturn (1802 - 1861) of Highlands, NJ. The couple married in San Francisco on 13 February 1862. Julia and Benjamin had three children: Julia Norton (b. 1863), Robert (1866 - 1927), and Mary Minturn (b. 1867). From May through November of 1868, Julia, Benjamin and their three children made an extended visit to the east coast, staying at Portland with Ben's father. They also visited friends and relatives in the New York area. Shortly after returning to San Francisco, Julia Hartshorne contracted a serious illness requiring the care of physician Dr. Charles Bertody from 4 December through 3 February 1869. On 5 December 1868, the doctor vaccinated Ben and the children. This suggests that Julia may have been suffering from smallpox, as the vaccine for it was the only one in common usage at that time. Julia Norton Hartshorne died on 3 February 1869 at the age of thirty. For more biographical information, including letters by her father-in-law Robert Hartshorne describing his son's wife to other family members, please see the portrait of Julia Norton Hartshorne 1999.7. The Association also has a portrait miniature of Julia Hartshorne (please see 2018.10.1.)
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