Necklace and Earrings

PeriodCirca 1865 - 1875

Place MadePossibly Italy

MediumGold, marble, glass, silk

Dimensions9.63 × 1.19 in. (24.5 × 3 cm)

ClassificationsAccessories, Women's

Credit LineGift of Miss Emily C. Butler, 1932

Object number1322

DescriptionA parure set of necklace and earrings, featuring micromosaic panels. The necklace consists of a large central heart-shaped pendant of gold, set with a multicolored scene of swimming swans in bold blue, red, and white, with a pair of doves and tiny geometric medallions surrounding the central scene. Tiny gold rings attach to either side of the panel from which hang finely twisted gold wire and pendant beads, a small lower pendant medallion, and two small side panels. The pendant assembly hangs from an 18 inch bar and ring gold chain with two small micromosaic spacer panels, fastening with a safety catch. On the back of the central pendant is a small colorless glass oval compartment lined with purple silk, probably to receive a woven hair memento. The set also includes a pair of matching earrings, with similar swan panels, in gold settings with screw-back earlobe fasteners. The original Holmes accession records assigned number 1322 to the necklace and 1323 to the earrings.
Curatorial RemarksMicromosaic jewelry in the style of this stunning necklace and earrings set reached the peak of popularity in the 19th century. The miniature scenes of swans and floral elements were created by spinniing threads or filaments of colored glass, then cutting or chipping tiny pieces, known as tesserae, setting them into stucco (a fine plaster) within a frame of gold, copper, or other metal. One square inch of micromosaic work can have as many as 1,400 pieces of tesserae. Colored wax was often applied to fill in the spaces, then the entire surface was polished. The resulting plaques or small panels were incorporated into a variety of jewelry - necklaces, earrings, bracelets, brooches, rings, and even buttons. Micromosaic jewelry began to increase in popularity in the United States beginning in the 1840s, reaching a peak between 1850 and 1860. It enjoyed a resurgence in fashion after the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Exhibition, where numerous micromosaic pieces were displayed. Athough travelers to Italy could purchase micromosaic jewelry as souvenirs, American jewelers imported both finished jewelry pieces as well as micromosaic panels which they then set in jewelry of their own designs. A "parure" is a set of matching jewelry pieces, which might include necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, brooches, and even decorative hair combs.NotesThis sophisticate parure set, dating from the mid 19th century, descended within the Butler family of Keyport, Monmouth County, New Jersey. Keyport was a vibrant and successful steamboat producation center, as well as being a central location for local Monmouth County farmers to load their produce onto vessels traveling to the big New York City markets. During the nineteenth century, Keyport also boasted numerous hotels, summer resort spots, and many successful businesses. It would not have been unusal for one of Keyport's successful families to own such elegant accessories. Donor Emily Butler also gave the Association a sparkling pink glass and silver necklace dating from the same time period (see Accession Number 1321).