Chatelaine

PeriodCirca 1880

Place MadeParis, France

MediumGold, lapis lazuli, paste brilliants, pearls

Dimensions4.63 × 1.5 × 0.63 in. (11.7 × 3.8 × 1.6 cm)

SignedThe chatelaine is marked in the watch case "Riballier. Palais Royal 53. Paris."

ClassificationsJewelry

Credit LineBequest of Mrs. Henry Lloyd Herbert, 1943

Object number1825

DescriptionA woman's pendant watch fob, also known as a chatelaine, with a central oval brooch of deep blue streaked lapis lazuli surrounded by 34 circular paste brilliants. Scalloped gold border setting with delicately engraved circle band, set with eight small pearls. A small circular watch hangs from an articulated gold link chain. The watch is backed with a lapis lazuli panel surrounded by 34 tiny paste brilliants. The clock face measures 1 1/16" diameter, and includes a white enameled facd with elogated roman numerals for the hours. To the right of the watch hangs a tiny gold "seal" with inset lapis lazuli beads. To the left of the watch hangs a tiny watch key, with lapis beads. A fine gold chain safety bar pin is attached to the back of the fob at the watch key join as a security clasp. The fob has a bar pin fastening at the back of the central oval brooch.
Curatorial RemarksJewelry featuring single color stones such as lapis lazuli or malachite experienced a surge in popularity after the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Exhibition, in which the Russian display boasted, among other items, a table with an inlaid top of lapis lazuli. This watch pin echoes one of the revival style so popular immediately after the Centennial. The small watch, watch key, and ornamental fob hanging from the pin's central circular element mimic eighteenth century chatelaines. Utlilitarian items such as scissors, keys, and pin cushions hung from chains attached to the wearer's belt. Mrs. Herbert's elegant chatelaine was retailed by the Parisian firm of Riballier, located on the fashionable Palais Royal in Paris. Lapis lazuli originates in Afghanistan, and was a popular stone in ancient Egypt. The chatelaine includes sparkling tiny paste "brilliants," mimicking the much more expensive diamonds. Real pearls provide a cool contrast to the gold settings. The thin gold chain and bar clasp acted as security and provided an extra measure of safety should the main clasp come undone.NotesThis elegant bauble was owned and worn by Suzanne Cortelyou Bedell Herbert. Mrs. Herbert's husband, Henry Lloyd Herbert, organized one of the first polo clubs in America in 1876. He helped to organize the American Polo Association in 1900 and served as its first president. He and his wife traveled extensively and moved in high social circles which included such notables as Theodore Roosevelt. After Mrs. Herbert's death in 1943, the watch pin was given to the Historical Association as a bequest. A large portrait of Suzanne Herbert and her mother, Mrs. Chuncey Bedell, along with a carved marble statue of Venus were other items within the bequest. Mrs. Herbert apparently favored lapis lazuli jewelry, as two other pieces - a necklace and a pin - were given to a close friend in the bequest.

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