Dress
Period1868
Place MadeSan Francisco or New York, U.S.A.
MediumCotton gauze, silk, glazed cotton
Dimensions57 × 23 in. (144.8 × 58.4 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mary Minturn Adams in memory of her Hartshorne Ancestors, 2018
Object number2018.10.32
DescriptionA woman's one-piece gown of open weave black cotton gauze, with a front hook and eye closure and "dog leg" waistband closure at left front waist. The gown has a high collar, slightly dropped shoulder seams, long shaped sleeves, and a skirt with gored front panels and gathered back waistband flowing into a long trained hem. The skirt is lined with plain black silk, with an additional 12" high glazed brown cotton hem facing. The gown is trimmed with striking cornsilk yellow cotton fringe along with rows of three-dimensional cylindrical woven bands, appearing to be of stiffened cornsilk yellow cotton threads. The gown also includes a separate and removable waistband sash with an attached front rosette of black gauze and cornsilk fringe and a draped rear overskirt. The gown's bodice is lined with glazed off-white and glazed brown cotton with additional boning channels enclosing whalebone stiffening.Curatorial RemarksThe wardrobe of Julia Norton Hartshorne, carefully preserved and protected in the years following her untimely death at the age of thirty, provides a rare glimpse into virtually an entire wardrobe of one woman at one moment in time. It is not uncommon for special garments of one particular person to be saved over time from various special occasions. Julia's wardrobe, however, presents a slice of a moment in time in her fashion choices. This particular gown is one of the more quirky in Julia's wardrobe, almost "concept fashion" in design. The unknown dressmaker relied on bold texture contrasts, with the matte black cotton gauze, so loosely woven as to give a rough appearance. The cornsilk yellow trimming is a profound contrast and appears to be of matte cotton fibers. The second type of trimming is a woven matte fiber, possibly cotton, appearing to be woven in the round, resulting in a cylindrical "ribbon." Many dressmakers regularly traveled to France and England to purchase fabrics, ribbons, and trimmings for their customers.NotesJulia Norton was born in Buffalo, NY, on 19 November 1838, a daughter of Charles Norton (1805 - 1870) and Julia A. Maltby (1804 - 1875). Between 1854 and 1861, the four Norton children moved to San Francisco, CA. Their parents moved to join them in the winter of 1862. In the spring of 1861, Julia became engaged to Benjamin Minturn Hartshorne (1826 - 1900), son of Robert Hartshorne (1798 - 1872) and Mary Ann Minturn (1802 - 1861) of Highlands, NJ. The couple married in San Francisco on 13 February 1862. Julia and Benjamin had three children: Julia Norton (b. 1863), Robert (1866 - 1927), and Mary Minturn (b. 1867). From May through November of 1868, Julia, Benjamin and their three children made an extended visit to the east coast, staying at Portland with Ben's father. They also visited friends and relatives in the New York area. Shortly after returning to San Francisco, Julia Hartshorne contracted a serious illness requiring the care of physician Dr. Charles Bertody from 4 December through 3 February 1869. On 5 December 1868, the doctor vaccinated Ben and the children. This suggests that Julia may have been suffering from smallpox, as the vaccine for it was the only one in common usage at that time. Julia Norton Hartshorne died on 3 February 1869 at the age of thirty. For more biographical information, including letters by her father-in-law Robert Hartshorne describing his son's wife to other family members, please see the portrait of Julia Norton Hartshorne 1999.7. The Association also has a portrait miniature of Julia Hartshorne (please see 2018.10.1.)
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