Dress
PeriodCirca 1855 - 1860
Place MadeNew Jersey or Pennsylvania, U.S.A.
MediumLighweight woven barred cotton gauze in a printed pattern, glazed brown cotton
Dimensions50 in. (127 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Miss Louise Hartshorne and Mrs. Charles Bennett, 1935
Object number841
DescriptionA young woman's day dress of a grid woven lightweight cotton voile in a pattern of cloudlike white ovoids on a maroon ground. The gown is constructed as one piece, with a front closure fastening with flattened steel hooks and eyes, a high round neck, and long shaped sleeves ending with narrow ruffles and a hook and thread loop closure. The gown's skirt is gathered to the waistband with cartridge pleating and includes a wide medial horizontal tuck at knee height. The gown's bodice is lined with brown cotton and includes channels with original whalebone. The skirt is unlined save for a wide 8" hem facing of lightweight glazed brown cotton. The gown also includes a small pocket at the proper right hip.Curatorial RemarksThis lovely gown answers the question, "how did women stay cool with so many layers?" The gown is constructed of a beautiful, lightweight cotton gauze, woven in a barred or grid pattern and printed in a maroon and white geometric alternating pattern. Gowns of this type were worn during the hot summer months, the sheer fabric allowing for air circulation and coolness. Louisa would have worn hoops in a relatively small circumfrence, probably no more than 90 inches or so, over which two or three lightweight cotton petticoats would be layered. The petticoat layer would also provide opacity under the cotton gauze, brightening the print and enhancing its airy, flowing qualities. The bodice is relatively loosely constructed and is lined with lightweight, breathable linen.NotesThis gown was owned and worn by Louisa Wikoff Hendrickson. Louisa was born in Philadelphia in 1839 to parents Charles and Julia Hendrickson. The family, including Louisa's three siblings, lived in Philadelphia until at least 1850. By 1860, however, the family lived in Middletown in Monmouth County. Charles Hendrickson was a highly successful farmer, with real estate valued at $60,000 and personal estate at $25,000. Louisa married fellow Middletown resident Edward Minturn Hartshorne (1837 - 1886) on January 20 1864. The couple lived in New York for a time, then returned to Middletown. Louisa and Edward had seven children. Louisa's gown, of lightweight barred cotton gauze, would have been perfect for summer wear at home or for daytime events. Its simple style, small size, and lack of extensive bodice darts indicate it was made for a girl in her teens, probably around 1855 or so.
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