Dress
Period1868
Place MadeSan Francisco or New York, U.S.A.
MediumSilk, glazed cotton, embroidered and woven silk ribbons
Dimensions70 in. (177.8 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mary Minturn Adams in memory of her Hartshorne Ancestors, 2018
Object number2018.10.31
DescriptionA woman's one-piece gown of crisp black silk taffeta, constructed with a round neck, front hook and eye closure, slightly dropped shoulders, and long shaped sleeves. The waistband closes with a dogleg hook and eye, and includes a long, wide train. The gown is trimmed with three different kinds of woven silk ribbon, woven in bright geometric and stylized foliate patterns in red, green, blue, and yellow. The ribbons are sewn to the skirt to create a bold linear pattern, and edge both neck and sleeve ends. Large teardrop shaped panels are edged with the ribbons and sewn to the front of the skirt, while smaller graduated sized teardrop panels also edged with the ribbons are attached at the tops only at the back of the skirt for visual interest. The bodice is lined with glazed dark brown cotton, and includes boned channels stiffened with whalebone. The bottom third of the skirt is lined with dark brown glazed cotton, and edged with a narrow horsehair braid.Curatorial RemarksJulia Norton Hartshorne's wardrobe includes this black silk taffeta gown, with an extended train and breathtaking ribbon ornamentation. Three types of ribbon - most likely French-made, all in similar shades of red, blue, yellow, and green - are applied to the gown to create a striking contrast. The gown, however, reveals one of the pitfalls for both dressmaker and dress wearer. The black silk taffeta, which must have appeared to have an excellent weight and luster when first used for Julia's dress, had a hidden problem. The silk was treated with metallic salts, used to give lightweight silks a heavier body and sheen. Over time, the microscopic particles of iron within the treatment degraded the silk fibers, causing them to split and "shatter." Many gowns showing this type of condition date to much later in the 19th century, particularly between 1890 and 1920. Julia's dress, made in 1868, is a relatively early example of such damage the metallic salts caused. The long train on this gown, coupled with the relatively high neckline and long sleeves, indicates that it was most likely intended for use as an afternoon reception dress.NotesJulia Norton was born in Buffalo, NY, on 19 November 1838, a daughter of Charles Norton (1805 - 1870) and Julia A. Maltby (1804 - 1875). Between 1854 and 1861, the four Norton children moved to San Francisco, CA. Their parents moved to join them in the winter of 1862. In the spring of 1861, Julia became engaged to Benjamin Minturn Hartshorne (1826 - 1900), son of Robert Hartshorne (1798 - 1872) and Mary Ann Minturn (1802 - 1861) of Highlands, NJ. The couple married in San Francisco on 13 February 1862. Julia and Benjamin had three children: Julia Norton (b. 1863), Robert (1866 - 1927), and Mary Minturn (b. 1867). From May through November of 1868, Julia, Benjamin and their three children made an extended visit to the east coast, staying at Portland with Ben's father. They also visited friends and relatives in the New York area. Shortly after returning to San Francisco, Julia Hartshorne contracted a serious illness requiring the care of physician Dr. Charles Bertody from 4 December through 3 February 1869. On 5 December 1868, the doctor vaccinated Ben and the children. This suggests that Julia may have been suffering from smallpox, as the vaccine for it was the only one in common usage at that time. Julia Norton Hartshorne died on 3 February 1869 at the age of thirty. For more biographical information, including letters by her father-in-law Robert Hartshorne describing his son's wife to other family members, please see the portrait of Julia Norton Hartshorne 1999.7. The Association also has a portrait miniature of Julia Hartshorne (please see 2018.10.1.)
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