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Dress
PeriodCirca 1855 - 1860
Place MadeNew Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumSilk taffeta, cotton
Dimensions56 in. (142.2 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mrs. J. Amory Haskell, 1941
Object number1565
DescriptionA woman's dress, constructed as one piece, of plaid taffeta in shades of off-white, rich brown, and black. The gown includes a rounded neck with a piped edge, sloped shoulders, closely fitted armscyes, and long sleeves ending in a gently curved edge cut in a slight pagoda or flared shape. The bodice is button front, with 12 small gold shank buttons and hand sewn button holes. The skirt is attached to the bodice and closes in a "dogleg" or offset waistband style. The skirt fabric is gathered into box pleats, and includes a small watch pocket on the proper left front side. The skirt hem is edged with a brown wool tape binding. Both skirt and bodice are lined with glazed white cotton fabric. The sleeves are trimmed with narrow black velvet ribbon banding and black net lace at upper arm and sleeve edge.Curatorial RemarksThe cut of this gown combined with the large-scale silk taffeta plaid fabric clearly places it between about 1858 to about 1862. Plaid silks were popular choices for both summer and winter gowns. The medium-weight cotton lining used in this dress would have made it suitable for cooler weather. The gown has suffered from minor "costume" changes, including the addition of a synthetic black lace collar which has been removed. The gown's original trimmings on the sleeves include a narrow black cotton velvet banding and black cotton lace edging are extensively worn, with some areas of lace completely shredded. The silk, however, is in marvelous condition with virtually no fading or discoloration. The fabric in the skirt indicates that it was cut for relatively narrow hoops, much more practical for everyday wear than the exaggerated wide hoop skirts which saw their zenith in about 1865.NotesThe unknown woman who wore this gown seems to have had her dress made by a relatively skilled local dressmaker. The fabric is one of the many plaid silk taffetas so popular around the late 1850s and into the 1860s. Donor Margaret Riker Haskell is best known as one of the most respected early 20th century American collectors, recognized for her furniture and fine art collections. Mrs. Haskell also collected a variety of interesting, quirky, and wide ranging objects, seemingly whatever caught her eye. She donated a number of interesting textiles to the Historical Association including this gown. Although the owner of the gown is unknown, Mrs. Haskell purchased many items from local Monmouth dealers including Freehold antiques dealer Edna Netter. It is highly likely that this gown came from a Monmouth family.
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