Dress
Period1868
MediumCotton batiste
Dimensions60 in. (152.4 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mary Minturn Adams in Memory of her Hartshore Ancestors, 2018
Object number2018.10.33
DescriptionA woman's light summer gown of white cotton batiste, constructed in one piece, with a front hook and eye closure and a dogleg waistband fastening. The gown includes a simple narrow standup collar, slightly dropped sleeves, loose shaped long sleeves, and a slight train. The gown is simplly ornamented with narrow bands of broderie anglaise along collar, shoulder seams, and wrists.The gown includes an attached bodice lining with small hook and eye fastenings.Curatorial RemarksJulia Norton Hartshorne's wardrobe reveals the fascinating contrast between those garments designed for formal or visiting wear and those dresses made for casual use around the house or close family or friends. This is one of three summer gowns Julia's unknown dressmaker created for her. The first two were fashioned out of printed cottons - one red spotted, the other with an interesting block and arrow print. This one relies only on simplicity and drape for its elegance. Cotton batiste was the first choice for all lightweight infants' and childrens' clothing, but was also used for petticoats, drawers, and camisoles as well as blouses and warm-weather wear. A comparison of the waist measurements of Julia's summer dresses compared to the more formal gowns reveals that Julia would have been able to wear her corset laced slightly less tightly, as the simple gowns are a full two inches larger in the waistband. Gowns like this were also easy to clean compared to the silk and heavily trimmed gowns for more formal wear.NotesJulia Norton was born in Buffalo, NY, on 19 November 1838, a daughter of Charles Norton (1805 - 1870) and Julia A. Maltby (1804 - 1875). Between 1854 and 1861, the four Norton children moved to San Francisco, CA. Their parents moved to join them in the winter of 1862. In the spring of 1861, Julia became engaged to Benjamin Minturn Hartshorne (1826 - 1900), son of Robert Hartshorne (1798 - 1872) and Mary Ann Minturn (1802 - 1861) of Highlands, NJ. The couple married in San Francisco on 13 February 1862. Julia and Benjamin had three children: Julia Norton (b. 1863), Robert (1866 - 1927), and Mary Minturn (b. 1867). From May through November of 1868, Julia, Benjamin and their three children made an extended visit to the east coast, staying at Portland with Ben's father. They also visited friends and relatives in the New York area. Shortly after returning to San Francisco, Julia Hartshorne contracted a serious illness requiring the care of physician Dr. Charles Bertody from 4 December through 3 February 1869. On 5 December 1868, the doctor vaccinated Ben and the children. This suggests that Julia may have been suffering from smallpox, as the vaccine for it was the only one in common usage at that time. Julia Norton Hartshorne died on 3 February 1869 at the age of thirty. For more biographical information, including letters by her father-in-law Robert Hartshorne describing his son's wife to other family members, please see the portrait of Julia Norton Hartshorne 1999.7. The Association also has a portrait miniature of Julia Hartshorne (please see 2018.10.1.)
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