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Gown
PeriodCirca 1840
Place MadeNew York or New Jersey, U.S.A.
MediumCotton, linen
Dimensions51 in. (129.5 cm)
ClassificationsCostume, Women's
Credit LineGift of Mr. Robert Johnson, 2008
Object number2008.5.3
DescriptionWoman's day or work dress of brown and off-white printed cotton calico in a pattern of sickle meander bands. The gown includes a wide boat neck with a gathered "infant" style bodice with self-piped seams. The long shaped sleeves are full, with multiple gathered rows along the upper arms, added ruffle above the elbow, and snugly fitting wrists with three button-and-loop closures. The full skirt is gathered to the bodice with cartridge pleats. The gown closes in the back with hook-and-eye fastenings. The gown's bodice is lined with medium weight off-white linen. The gown's skirt is faced with a deep 7" hem. The gown also includes a matching fichu or decorative shawl, made of the same material, unlined, with a narrow ruffle added along the bottom hem edge.Curatorial RemarksThis simple print gown is made with all the stylish and complex details of the fashion of the early 1840s. Cotton print calico fabric was used extensively for day gowns of almost all economic levels. Sarah Coffin Taylor would have worn this gown for everyday use in the warmer weather. The fichu, or decorative shawl, could be worn or left off for a slightly different appearance. By the early 1840s, the extreme fullness of the balloon sleeves of the very late 1830s had "collapsed" and been gathered into a variety of pleats, tucks, and shirring to be worn close to the arm. The lower portion of the sleeve was full, with the long sleeve ends made to fit very closely to the wearer's wrists. By the early 1840s, the waistline had returned to the natural level following the very high-waisted styles of earlier in the century. Steel hoops, or "hoopskirts," had not yet come into fashion, so Sarah's full skirts would be achieved through layering of multiple petticoats, sometimes four or more.NotesThis simple yet fashionable printed cotton gown was most likely worn by Sarah Coffin Taylor. Sarah was born on September 29, 1799, in New York. to Alexander and Lydia Coffin. She married Middletown resident Asher Taylor (1800 - 1878) on June 23, 1832. The couple had four children. The Taylor family lived in New York City for many years during which time Asher served as New York City Marshall. Sarah died on March 31, 1869, at the age of 69 and was buried in Fair View Cemetery in Middletown, Monmouth County, New Jersey.
